Want to improve your home's energy-efficiency?

There are some do-it-yourself tasks that are cost-effective ways to make your home more efficient and comfortable.

Adding additional ceiling insulation is usually one of the most cost-efficient improvements you can make. Homeowners can install additional batts of fiberglass insulation to their homes' existing attic insulation. You can add fiberglass batts over existing batt insulation or over loose-fill insulation.

First, check your attic to see how much insulation you have now. Blown-in fiberglass has about R-2.25 per inch, blown-in cellulose has about R-3.5 per inch and fiberglass batt has about R-3 per inch. Fiberglass insulation looks like cotton candy, while the cellulose insulation is gray. Increasing insulation to R-38 is a cost-effective way to reduce your energy bill.

To install insulation, place the insulation in the space between joists. There should already be a vapor barrier under the existing insulation; so added insulation should be in the form of unfaced batts, which do not have a vapor barrier. The insulation should fit snugly. If the cavities between joists are filled with insulation, lay the new insulation perpendicular to the direction of the joists. If the area is not completely filled, use the appropriate thickness of insulation to reach the top of the joist cavities. Then you can add additional insulation perpendicular to the joists. Make sure there are no gaps between insulation batts. Use leftover pieces of insulation to fill small spaces.

Make sure the insulation doesn't block exterior vents. Insulation should be at least three inches away from any metal chimneys, gas water heater flues or other heat-producing devices.

Insulation should be kept three inches away from recessed lighting fixtures, unless the fixtures are designed for direct contact with insulation.

Fiberglass insulation is very irritating to the skin and eyes. When working with fiberglass insulation, wear a disposable dust mask, protective glasses, gloves and a long-sleeved shirt. Wash the clothes you use separately. After you've taken the clothes out of the washer, run a rinse cycle to be sure the fiberglass bits won't end up on your next batch of clothes.

Air Sealing

As much as 30 percent of a home's heating and cooling use is caused by outside air leaking into and out of the home. Common areas of air leakage include:

• Door and window frames
• Electrical and gas service entrances
• Cable and phone line entrances
• Outdoor water faucets
• Where fans and dryer vents pass through walls

You can reduce air leakage inexpensively with caulking and weather stripping. Caulk forms a seal against leaks for cracks or joints less than a quarter-inch wide.

Silicone caulking compound is probably the most versatile sealant. It seals most dissimilar building materials such as wood, metal and brick. Water-based caulk has the advantage of easy cleanup. Expandable polyurethane foam can be used to fill larger and irregularly shaped gaps. It's useful to fill exterior penetrations such as pipes.

Another simple improvement is adding weather-stripping to doors and windows. If you can see light around a door or feel a draft, you could benefit from weather-stripping. There are a variety of products available, including v-shaped metal or plastic strips and self-adhesive foam. You can add a sweep to the bottom of the door or replace a worn threshold.

If you'd like more information about improving your home's energy-efficiency, Jackson EMC offers a number of services to help you improve your home's energy-efficiency.

Online Resources from the U.S. Department of Energy

A Consumer's Guide to Energy-Efficiency and Renewable Energy:

www.eere.energy.gov/consumer

Weatherize Your Home ? Caulk and Weather Strip:

www.nrel.gov/docs/fy01osti/28039.pdf

A Do-It-Yourself Guide to Energy Star® Home Sealing:

www.energystar.gov/ia/home_improvement/home_sealing/DIY_COLOR_100_dpi.pdf